Guest posting from Grandma's army May 01, 2019
During the Passover holidays I
visited “Jewish” Salonika, the second largest city in Greece and the capital of
Macedonia. Since Jews all over the world will be commemorating Holocaust Day
tomorrow, we were interested to learn what became of the local Jewish community
during WWII. Unbelievably, we were told that 98% of the community perished in
concentration camps!
To compound the tragedy
- the physical extermination of Salonikan Jews was followed by
almost total oblivion about the history, influences and accomplishments of the
city’s Jews.
The first Jews are thought to have
arrived in the region in 513 B.C.E. and remained uninterrupted throughout the
Roman and Byzantine eras. However, it was the influx of the 20,000 Jews who
fled the Spanish Inquisition in 1492 and found refuge in Ottomon Saloniki,
which created an autonomous Jewish city. At least two thirds of the total
population were Jewish. Salonika was dubbed “Mother of Israel” and “Jerusalem
of the Balkans”.
David Ben-Gurion and Yitzhak ben-Zvi
(both former Prime Ministers) visited Salonika in 1911 to study a functioning
Jewish society - which could serve as a model for a future state of Israel.
In 1913 the essentially Jewish city
was annexed to Greece from the Ottoman Empire. After Greece achieved
independence of the Ottoman Empire, it made the Jews full citizens of the
country in the 1920’s.
Following the German occupation
during 1941-43, the ancient and vibrant Jewish community of Salonika in Greece
was completely destroyed.
The Germans began with
the destruction of the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe - desecrating 500
years of Jewish history and half a million gravestones. The desecration of the
dead was part of the Nazi’s plan to dehumanize the living. With the destruction
of the Jewish cemetery, the Germans swiftly began transporting the Jews of
Salonika to the death camps. Human bones and broken tombstones were used as
building materials – by the local Greek government, the Germans, the local
churches, and members of the community.
The following picture depicts the
beginning of the end in the ironically named Freedom Square. In July 1942,
9,000 starving Jewish men, aged 18-45 were forced at gunpoint by the German
occupiers to assemble in the scorching sun to be registered for forced labour.
It was only in 2014 that the silence
about the Jews was suddenly broken when the Greek press triumphantly reported
the name of the winner of the Nobel prize for literature, Patrick Modiano, a
Jew whose origins are from Salonika.
The
present mayor is the first major figure in Salonika to take concrete and
symbolic steps to restore the city’s Jewish heritage.
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