I recently traveled
to Israel as part of a study abroad program through the American University in
Washington, DC. As a master’s student concentrating on peace and conflict
resolution and as a Kurd from northern Iraq, I was curious about the intense
hostility toward Jews in the Middle East, the negative bias in the mainstream
media and the continuous antisemitic lectures and activities on college
campuses, including my own university.
My trip to Israel was unique. I was able to travel there through the Kurdistan
Region of Iraq. Having departed from the Sulaymaniyah International Airport in
the KRI, I was sent off with a smile among my fellow Kurds without any shame, despite
the fact that a trip to Israel is taboo among Middle Easterners.
Upon arriving at
Ben-Gurion Airport, I was briefly held back by security due to concerns about a
first-time traveler to Israel coming from an Arab state with no diplomatic
relations (Iraq). This was understandable and expected, I too expect heavy
screening towards foreigners entering the KRI due to the hostility of the
region. I successfully and peacefully passed through airport security with a
visa that would allow me to stay beyond my permitted time.
My first interaction with an Israeli was with a taxi driver driving me to my
hotel. His conversations were animated, his politics realistic. He said he
doesn’t care what religion one believes in, he just wants to live in peace. I
tested the waters and told him I was Kurdish and he was very excited.
His eyes lit up and he immediately called for establishing a Kurdistan without
my prodding. “That was easy,” I said to myself.
My time in Tel Aviv was brief, a little over a week. But what the city offered
was unprecedented to me, especially in the Middle East. It is modern, filled
will young Israelis enjoying life at the beaches, nightlife spots, restaurants.
It is also historical and diverse. I witnessed Muslims and Jews intermingling,
mosques calling for prayer, Arab families enjoying their time together on the beaches
after breaking their fast. No one bothered others; everyone minded their own
business. I tried hard to discover instances of negative interactions between
the two peoples, but they even smoked hookah together at the local café.
I thought that maybe Tel Aviv is in its own little bubble, distant from the
reality we witness every day in the media, so together with my class, we took a
bus ride to Jerusalem.
I was excited, having heard so much about the ancient city – from the time when
the Kurdish sultan Saladin Ayubi conquered the Old City from the Crusaders to
the current Arab-Israeli conflict.
After a short ride, we checked into our dorms and got a tour of Hebrew
University, where we would be studying for the rest of the trip. Hebrew
University has a beautiful campus situated on a hill overlooking the Old City.
Without having any knowledge of the school, I assumed there would be only
Israelis studying there, but again I was wrong. Young college students included
Jews, Muslims, women with and without headscarves all together at this
institution. I was still struggling to find the picture that the Arab world and
the mainstream media have painted.
Throughout my time in Jerusalem I had the opportunity to speak with locals and
elected officials, Arabs and Israelis at cafés, restaurants, bars, in the
Muslim quarter, the Knesset, the shuk (outdoor bazaar) and so on. My
interactions with Palestinians took place in the Muslim quarter, at the local
restaurants and tea houses – all men, as talking with the women was looked down
upon.
I entered the Old City through the Damascus Gate, although I was warned to not
enter there because the site had been the scene of stabbings and attacks. I
thought to myself, “I’ll be fine – I’m from Kirkuk, a far more dangerous city.”
Wanting to experience the real Jerusalem, I stayed away from popular tourist
sites such as the shopping centers and famous high-end restaurants and explored
the Old City and the surrounding area for the next few weeks. I made a few
Palestinian friends over hookah and Arabic coffee. They tried to not discuss
politics but were also keen on labeling me Iraqi. I accepted their opinions,
but they were more excited about America and the dream of one day moving there.
I also visited the walls built around the Palestinian territories.
My feelings were mixed, but having personally experienced war and refugee camps
from Arab governments, Syrian President Bashar Assad and former Iraqi leader
Saddam Hussein, a Palestinian ally, I thought although it is not the ideal
solution for either side – safety and security are better than terrorism.
One conversation that would stick with me was with a uniformed IDF soldier in
his early 20s. I approached him while he was sitting alone having lunch, and
began to slowly move past small talk. He was proud to serve his nation and was
ready to defend it both literally and verbally.
He wasn’t a “tough guy,” he simply loved his nation.
He mentioned although it is mandatory for him to serve in the IDF, he would
have done it regardless. He was also curious where I was from. When I replied
Kurdistan, he shook his head in sadness, acknowledging that we are without a
state and thanked me for our people fighting ISIS in Syria and Iraq.
We had the privilege of visiting the Knesset. Thanks to my professor, who
attempted to keep the meetings with guest MKs balanced, we were given views
from the far Left, Right and everything in between. The most surprising
comments were made by MK Taleb Abu Arar of the United Arab List, who openly
declared Israel an undemocratic terrorist country while supporting Hamas and
staunchly backing Turkish President Erdogan. He ignored my questions about
double standards on Kurds in Turkey. I thought to myself, “You are calling
Israel undemocratic? But you have a seat in their Knesset, you’re openly
supporting Hamas and calling the government terrorist? Interesting.”
Unfortunately, the night before the end of the program, when I was having
coffee inside Damascus Gate, a terrorist attack occurred. An IDF soldier by the
name of Hadas Malka, only 23, was stabbed and lost her life after being rushed
to the hospital. The gates were shut down, the city was on alert and
Palestinians flocked to the streets to protest. Tel Aviv may be in its own
bubble, but Jerusalem is fragile. People do want peace on both sides. We just
have to move beyond those who incite terrorism. Israel is not the horror movie
we witness on TV or by academics – it is a country simply striving to survive
in a hostile region.
The writer is an NRT English columnist and master’s degree student at American
University’s School of International Service in Washington, DC. He is also a
research fellow at the Endowment for Middle East Truth (EMET). Follow him on
Twitter: @D_abdulkader